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25.11.2012 15:38 - Short ski breaks in the Alps
Автор: mese4inkata Категория: Други   
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Последна промяна: 25.11.2012 15:43


Short ski breaks in the Alps

 

FRANCE, Chamonix

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Surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery, and world-renown ed for its steep slopes and deep powder, Chamonix is very popular with expert skiers. By far the best way to ski it is with an experienced mountain guide; that way you will make the most of your limited time and safely access the best snow in the area.

The convenience of Chamonix"s one-hour transfer time from Geneva airport is balanced by the inconvenience of its five separate ski areas: it is by no means a ski-in, ski-out resort. But what other ski destination can boast both the spectacular, 23km off-piste Vallйe Blanche run, accessed via the Aiguille du Midi, and the breathtaking views of Mont Blanc from the south-facing slopes of La Flиgйre and Le Brйvent? Its challenging slopes are Chamonix"s main attraction, but intermediates are catered for with cruiseable pistes at the Domaine de Balme and Les Houches areas; the latter offers sheltered terrain for when the weather is poor higher up. And Le Tour is good for novices.

The problem with the mountain restaurants in Chamonix is simply that there aren"t enough of them. The small, ancient Chalet Refuge de Lognan (00 33 6 88 56 03 54) in Argentiиre overlooks the jagged ice of the glacier and serves excellent but unpretentious food. In town, a substantial place with a pedestrianised centre, you are spoiled for choice, not just of restaurants and bars but of things to do and see, including indoor tennis, the Alpine museum and a casino. The most celebrated place for dinner is the two-Michelin-star Restaurant Albert 1er (00 33 4 50 53 05 09), in the hotel of the same name.

BA, BMI, EasyJet and Swiss (among others) fly to Geneva; Chamonix specialists Ski Weekend (01392 878353; www.skiweekend.com) organises trips to the area

 

ITALY, Courmayeur

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An old village with a cobbled main street, Courmayeur is an utterly charming place. Its ski area is small, and most of the 100km of pistes - mainly well groomed reds and blues - appeal to intermediates who can spend their days catching the morning sun in the east-facing Checrouit area and then moving around to Val Veny in the afternoon. But the off-piste options are inspiring, particularly off the Cresta d"Arp, and a big draw for expert skiers. Courmayeur can also offer heli-skiing, which is not permitted just up the road in France.

Formerly, weekend lift queues were a problem; but thanks to the Dolonne gondola, which came into operation in 2008, the slow shuffle of ski boots is rarely heard now. Only at New Year do the slopes get busy with Italian skiers, who in recent years have spread themselves across a wider range of resorts. A new route means that it is now possible to ski down to the base of the gondola.

If you like long lunches with a bit of skiing before and after, you can do no better than Courmayeur: there are 23 mountain restaurants to choose from. Chiecco (00 39 338 700 3035) is highly regarded for its homemade pвtй, fresh pasta and venison medallions. In town, Cadran Solaire (00 39 0165 844609) is the place to go for both its ambience and classic dishes such as beef fillet with artichokes and duck breast with honey, pomegranate and balsamic vinegar.

Courmayeur is easily accessible by motorway from three airports (Turin, Geneva, and Milan Malpensa), and only about 20 minutes away from alternative ski areas: Chamonix in one direction and La Thuile in the other.

 

FRANCE, Megиve

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A classy, stylish place, Megиve was developed in the 1920s - around a medieval core - as a swanky French alternative to St Moritz. Only in the past couple of decades has it been upstaged by Courchevel. Its ski area, low by French standards, tops out at 2,355 metres; but the grassy, rock-free slopes don"t need much to provide good skiing. And since it"s not known as a place of epic terrain, the skiers it attracts tend to stick to the myriad tree-lined pistes. So the readily accessible off-piste areas are often untouched.

Among the 325km of the pistes are plenty of intermediate-friendly reds and blues, one of the finest of which is the run to St Nicholas from L"Epaule, the shoulder of Mont Joly. Beginners will find Megиve a great place to learn, too.

Only 75 minutes" drive from Geneva airport, Megиve has some lovely bars in the pedestrianised centre; and although it is not known for ski-boot dancing, places such as Wake Up and the Cocoon get lively - and the Club de Jazz Les Cinq Rues draws good musicians.

There are great restaurants on the mountain and in the village. Le Radaz at Cote 2000 serves a great tartiflette on its sun deck (or inside with the wood-burning stoves if the weather is bad). Among the many options for dinner, the Michelin-starred Flocons de Sel (00 33 4 50 21 49 99; www.flocondesel.com) stands out for the creative cuisine of owner Emmanuek Renaut.

 

AUSTRIA, St Anton

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The full-on, friendly aprиs-ski of Austria is the best exemplified at St Anton. Immediately after the lifts have closed, the Mooserwirt bar is a sight to behold, best seen through the bottom of a large stein of beer. From there, you can move on to the Krazy Kanguruh, Kandahar, Piccadilly...

But before all that, there is a lot of great terrain to ski. The challenging trails and extensive off-piste are a magnet for proficient skiers. For an early-morning blast there"s another downhill racecourse from Kapall, which ends on the steep but now widened Fang piste; then there"s the 10.2kn Walluga-Ulmer Hьtte run down to the town; and off the Schindlergrat there are some tricky couloirs.

Altogether there are 280km of pisted runs served by 85 lifts in the Arlberg ski area (which also comprises the resorts of St Christoph, Lech, Zьrs and Stuben), so skiers of all abilities will find plenty of suitable terrain.

The on-mountain cuisine is right up to scratch: the Verwall Stube (00 43 5446 235 2501), just above the Galzig lift at 2,185 metres, is the highest restaurant in Europe in the Gault Millau guide. Among the choice dining places in town is Restaurant Post Sub (00 43 5446 22130; www.hotel-post.co.at) in the Hotel Post; it has a quiet, upmarket ambience and serves dishes such as calf saddle, trout and warm salads. The town is pleasant enough, its backbone being the pedestrianised Dorfstrasse. There"s an abundance of chalets and other accommodation and a good connection by rail from Zьrich and Innsbruck.

 

SWITZERLAND, Engelberg

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A lesser-known resort which has recently gathered a loyal following, Engelberg offers abundant off-piste skiing on the mighty 3,240-metre-high Titlis mountain. Its 2,000-metre vertical drop is one of the longest in Europe; and there"s a powder field with a 1,120-metre vertical at Laub. The altitude means good snow is all but guaranteed, but the mountain is glaciated, so you will need a mountain guide off-piste to keep you away from crevasses and cliff drops. Intermediates will also thrive on-piste, with the bulk of the 82km of pistes being classified as blue or red.

It isn"t a chocolate box but the village is nevertheless attractive, dominated by the vast monastery founded in 1120. A period of popularity with British travellers in the early 1900s resulted in the Victorian-style hotels that stand proudly near the railway station.

For on-mountain dining, the Titlis Stьbli (00 41 41 639 5080) stands out, for its views as much as its local cuisine: the restaurant, at an altitude of 3,020 metres, is at the top station of the Rotair, a cable-car that spins slowly through 360 degrees as it ascends. Back down on earth, dine at the Hess restaurant (00 41 41 637 0909; www.hess-restaurant.ch), which offers very fine cuisine plus wine tasting in the cellar.

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Тагове:   Italy,   travel,   ski,   Europe,   AUSTRIA,   France,   Switzerland,   Alps,


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Автор: mese4inkata
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