Camp on the beach on the Emerald coast, take a tour of Cognac country or follow in Proust"s footsteps around Normandy – our experts reveal their dream trips that won"t break the bank
Source: The Guardian

Brittany

It is called the Emerald coast and bears its name with panache. From Cancale, world capital for oysters, to St Briac, where Renoir loved daydreaming, this stretch of granite rocks and gold sand shelters resorts with everything discerning visitors on a budget could dream of. Among them is Dinard, between St Malo and St Lunaire. There, pitch your tent at the Camping du Port Blanc (rue du Sergent Boulanger, +33 2 9946 1074, camping-port-blanc.com) on the beach, from €13pp a night, or rent a studio at the charming La Pensйe in St Lunaire (la-pensee.pagesperso-orange.fr) from €195 for a week.

Among the many things to do in and around Dinard: swim, sail, walk, eat and hunt for antiques. In Dinard and St Lunaire, Point Passion Plage (digue de L"Ecluse, Dinard, +33 2 9988 1520, pointplage.fr) provides kayak, catamaran and windsurf lessons and rentals. You can also purchase a €92 pass that will give you access to all their activities.

Your stay on the Emerald coast wouldn"t be complete without a taste of the region"s best galettes, such as those of Crкperie du Roy (9 boulevard Fйart, Dinard, +33 2 9946 1057). Go for the galette soubise (onions cooked in muscadet) and crкpe pomme maison flambйe au calvados – your palate (and wallet) will be forever grateful.

If you want to treat yourself, then veer towards the promenade au Clair de Lune. At the end stands La Gonelle (+33 2 9916 4047, lagonelle.com), a seafood and fish restaurant open from 15 April to 30 September. You can choose your fish from the aquarium; the chef will present it to you on a platter as it breathes its last.

There"s no need for a car in Dinard. Public transport, such as the bus linking St Briac to St Malo (illenoo-services.fr), or the vedette (boat) taking you to St Malo every half-hour (vedettes-saint-malo.com), are reliable and cheap. You can also rent a bike for the day near Dinard"s market (8 rue St Enogat, +33 2 9946 2725, breizhcycles.com) and cycle to the medieval city of Dinan (dinan-tourisme.com). You"ll pedal through sunflower fields and old villages and hug the River Rance for a few miles. Dinard will leave you with wonderful and enduring souvenirs.

French-born Agnиs Poirier is a political commentator and film critic based in Paris

Normandy

In order to do the Marcel Proust tour of Normandy properly, you should ideally be driven by a bisexual chauffeur you"re lusting after. If you can"t manage that, then hire a convertible two-seater and get your significant other to wear goggles, kinky rubber coat and close-fitting aviator"s hat while you shout relevant passages from A la Recherche du Temps Perdu from the passenger seat.

Drive first to the Grand Hфtel Cabourg (les jardins du Casino, +33 2 3191 0179, accorhotels.com) on the lovely Cфte Fleurie (Flower Coast). Proust checked into his fourth floor suite here feverish and exhausted in the summer 1907. He wrote: "… menaced by the enemies thronging around me, penetrated to the very bones by fever, I was alone and wanted to die". When I stayed in the Marcel Proust suite with my beloved, by contrast, I couldn"t have been happier. I flung open the French windows on to the Promenade de Marcel Proust and rang for the best room service I"ve ever had – champagne with confite de daurade aux huоtres.

You could splash out and do the same – a double room costs from €165. Or stay at nearby La Raspeliиre (from €80 for a double, chambres-hotes-cabourg.fr), and then dine at Le Balbec restaurant below the Grand Hфtel, with its marvellous seasonal seafood menu (three courses from €56). First, though, have a Proust cocktail (gin, cointreau, orange and curaзao bleu) in the Belle Epoque bar while listening to Scott Joplin on the computerised pianola.

Next morning follow Proust and the love of his life, chauffeur Albert Agostinelli, on their tour of Norman architecture. They went to Bayeux, not to see the tapestry, but to pay homage to oriental figures in the romanesque part of Bayeux cathedral. They didn"t, as far as I can find out, have lunch in Bayeux"s restaurants (try La Rapiиre, off rue St Jean, +33 2 3121 0545, larapiere.net) offering Norman-style cooking. But you should.

Rejoin Proust"s tour by visiting the abbeys of Jumiиges, Saint-Wandrille and Saint-Georges de Bouscheville, perhaps taking tea at the Chвteau de Balleroy (chateau-balleroy.com), where Proust savoured Boucher"s tapestries.

Check into another grand hotel – the Grand Hфtel de l"Espйrance at Lisieux (from €69 a night, lisieux-hotel.com) and after dinner, get your chauffeur to drive you to the cathedral of St Pierre. It was here that in 1907 Proust studied the facade"s foliated tracery, illuminated by Agostinelli"s headlamps.

The following morning drive towards Illiers, where adolescent Marcel stayed. On the way, you"d be idiotic not to visit Chartres cathedral (chartres-tourisme.com). Illiers itself is a scruffy backwater village transformed into Combray in the novel. Today the house where Proust"s Tante Lйonie lived is a little museum (marcelproust.pagesperso-orange.fr). From Illiers, you could drive to Monet"s garden at Giverny (€8, giverny.org/gardens). Proust repeatedly planned to go, but never made it. A shame: given his love of botany and his hypersensitive openness to beauty, he would have adored it.

Stuart Jeffries is a feature writer and ex-Paris correspondent for the Guardian

Loire

The Loire Valley has to be France"s most franзais region. Its people speak the purest French, and it"s also at the heart of the country"s history – a fascinating base for a week"s touring.

The most famous chateau, and justifiably so, is Chenonceau (chenonceau.com) in Indre-et-Loire – it straddles a lake on a series of arches, and was a gift from King Henri II to his lover Diane de Poitiers, a woman so sexy that the Queen, Catherine de Medici, used to spy on the couple"s lovemaking to learn a few tricks. Chenonceau is to chateaux what Monica Bellucci is to cinema. Le Relais de Chenonceaux (+33 2 4723 9811, chenonceaux.com), close to the chateau, has double rooms from €52, half-board from €92.

To the south-west, across vineyard-covered countryside stands the hilltop Chвteau de Chinon (visit-loire.com/cities-loire/chinon). You can stand in the very room where Joan of Arc performed a "miracle" in 1429. To test her divine inspiration, Prince Charles (no, not that one) hid in disguise among his courtiers. Unerringly, Joan picked him out. Miraculous, until you realise that the knock-kneed, squinty-eyed prince was one of the most recognisable men in France.

A great-value day out is a rent-a-bike ride along the Loire riverbanks from the medieval Chвteau de Blois (chateaudeblois.fr): Traоneurs de Loire (traineursdeloire.com) rent out bikes for €13 a day from several locations along the river.

In the evenings, the region is the perfect place for a gourmet feast. In the old centre of Saumur, Auberge Saint-Pierre (6 place Saint-Pierre, auberge-saintpierre.com) has traditional regional cuisine at reasonable prices, such as boeuf bourguignon for €11.50.

And if I taste a wine I like at dinner, I ask the restaurateur for the grower"s address, then drop by next day to stock up at wholesale prices. Chinon blanc sec, for example, is a golden drink that inspires descriptions like "harmonious", "fruity" and "generous with its charms" – very much like this part of France itself.

Stephen Clarke, author of A Year in the Merde (Black Swan, Ј7.99). His new book, Paris Revealed, is out on 31 March

Aquitaine

The first time I travelled down to France"s south-west corner, it was to investigate the region"s separatist movement, Iparetarrak (IK), a more amateurish and considerably less violent version of Eta. For many years, IK was secretly applauded by those Parisians lucky enough to own houses along that pristine stretch of Atlantic coastline. Twenty years on, the revolutionaries that fed IK have retired and development along the coastline has mushroomed. New-builds have sprung up on the hills, and traffic jams along the coast"s route nationale are the norm.

There is one place, however, that has not changed. Guйthary is a small fishing village nestled between the chichi seaside towns of Biarritz and Saint Jean-de-Luz. It is also one of Europe"s more confidential surf spots and so it has been contaminated or preserved, depending on your point of view, by a certain alternative vibe that seems to co-exist quite nicely with the well-heeled Parisian families who have been holidaying there since the 60s.

The village is sliced in two by the route nationale, so you"ll want to make sure you"re staying on the right side of it. Head straight to the Hotel Madrid (+33 5 5926 5212, lemadrid.com) in the heart of the village. Here the sound of the ocean rubs out the distant rumble of traffic. Unaltered since the turn of the last century when Paul Klee stayed here and sat with Kandinsky on its windswept terrace overlooking the sea, Le Madrid is still a simple, family hotel with five pretty rooms, from €59 a night, and a good restaurant.

Guйthary is one of those magical places to which people return faithfully all their lives. My own children would play for hours on its vast fronton (court), theoretically for pelota but more often for impromptu football, or rollerskating, or teenage flirting or, at night, dances and fireworks or Basque games (shows of strength).

In the morning, you might walk down to one of Guйthary"s three beaches: la Plage du Centre to mess around in the rockpools and eat chipirones (tiny squid) or gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp) at Kostaldea, a little place right on the beach. Or there are the wilder beaches of Les Alcyons or Cenitz, where you can lie on the white sand or body-surf in the big waves. Later, while the children play outside you can be in the Bar Basque opposite the Madrid, drinking sangria and watching the sunset.

Lucy Wadham is the author of The Secret Life of France (Faber, Ј7.99)

Alsace

With a unique Franco-German character, Alsace offers stunning mountainous scenery, gorgeous villages, fascinating museums and wonderful wines. My ideal itinerary around the region kicks off high up in the Vosges mountains. The wonderful little eco-hotel Villa Rosa (rue Thierry Schoerem, +33 3 8949 8119, villarosa.fr) in Trois-Epis, near the town of Colmar, is the perfect place to relax. It has eight comfortable rooms costing from €63 per night, and its owner, Anne-Rose, creates wonderful meals with the vegetables, herbs and flowers from her garden (€26 for three courses).

After winding down for a day or two next to the solar-heated pool or taking walks from the hotel, I"ll jump in the hire car for some thrilling drives through the mountains. The hairpin bends aren"t for the faint-hearted, and the roads" steep hills are a popular challenge for cyclists. My destination is the nearby village of Turckheim. Like my other favourite villages, Eguisheim and Riquewihr, Turckheim has wonderful narrow streets rambling through colourful timber-framed houses with window boxes in full bloom. My stroll will also have me sniffing out one of Turckheim"s wineries where I"ll sample the local riesling and gewьrztraminer.

Not far from Turckheim is the imposing Chвteau du Haut-Koenigsbourg (haut-koenigsbourg.fr). Sitting high over the vineyard-lined valley, the castle dates from the 12th century and offers incredible views across to the Black Forest in Germany. After a poke around its battlements, I"ll carry on to Colmar, a gorgeous little town in the heart of Alsace. Lunch is at the characterful restaurant Maison Rouge (9, rue des Ecoles, Colmar, +33 3 8923 5322), where I"ll tuck into a salad of the local Munster cheese, or a delicious tarte flambйe, before walking it off along the canal in the area known as Petite Venise (Little Venice).

Carolyn Boyd is editor of France magazine (francemag.com)

Poitou-Charentes

Beneath Tiepolo skies, it"s a gentle amble through shimmering cognac vines down to the Charente river for a dip in the calm waters. Such is the idyllic nature of summer days in the Charente, second-sunniest corner of France, after the Riviera.

The riverside town of Cognac has for four centuries been the home of cognac-making, now a booming export trade, not least among the American rapper fraternity where it"s known as "yak". In the courtyard restaurant of the quirkily decorated but comfortable Hotel Heritage (25, rue d"Angoulкme, +33 5 4582 0126, hheritage.com, doubles €70) or in the smartly cosy Le Bistro de Claude (35 rue Grande, +33 5 4582 6032, bistro-de-claude.com) the spirit Victor Hugo dubbed "the liquor of the gods" is served in tulip glasses to stop aromas escaping.

Most cognac houses – such as Hennessy, Martell and Rйmy Martin – offer visits and tastings. But Baron Otard (baronotard.com) has the advantage of being in the Chвteau de Cognac so the tour takes in Renaissance halls designed by Leonardo da Vinci and plunges into a fungi-draped dungeon, the "paradise cellar", where cognacs from centuries past are stored.

For sustenance of the soul, the nearby thousand-year-old Abbey of Bassac (+33 5 4581 9422, abbayebassac.com) has a tangible spirituality and visitors are welcome to stroll in the near-silent gardens. Within the same tiny village there"s a choice of two good restaurants, L"Essille (rue de Conde, +33 5 4581 9413, hotel-restaurant-essille.com) and L"Auberge de Condй (, doubles €35, rue Rixendis Loriches, +33 5 4583 0967, auberge-de-conde.net).

But for an insight into contemporary French culture, head to Angoulкme, historic home of papermaking and capital of the comic book. On a ramble through the hilly Charente capital you"ll spot some of the 20 or so giant-scale cartoon scenes painted on to the sides of buildings by top comic strip artists.

Lennox Morrison is an author and journalist based in Paris

Dordogne

The prehistoric Lascaux caves, Bergerac, and Sarlat are the famous sites of the Dordogne region of Aquitaine, but in the bit I know well I"ve found many surprising treasures. Make a base in the pretty village of Sainte Alvиre, such as the sweet Roquebrune en Pйrigord (+33 5 5361 2418, roquebrune-perigord.com, €75 for two), where you will be tempted to spend a week scoffing saucisson, truffles and foie gras from the weekly market (the rotisserie chicken van is amazing). Go dancing one night with local farmers, families and dreadlocked hippies at La Guinguette de Neufonds, a fun restaurant beside a lake (where you can swim) near Vergt, that has a cheap buffet with live music ranging from Gypsy jazz to local ska-punk.

My top day trips are as follows. A wonderful chateau with an interesting backstory is Chвteau des Milandes (milandes.com) in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, once the home of Josephine Baker, the African American who became an exotic dancer in Paris in the 20s. She also spied for the French resistance, was a major player in the American civil rights movement and the Angelina Jolie of her day, adopting children from around the world. Look out for the gorgeous art deco bathrooms modelled on perfume bottles and her famous banana skirt. Another day drive to Limeuil, where the Dordogne and Vйzиre rivers meet and you can go for a high-speed float in the strong currents, or kayak. Further away, on the coast, the incredible Dune du Pyla is Europe"s biggest sand dune, and if you"re in the area in May, the Bergerac jazz festival (jazzpourpre.com) is excellent.

Gemma Bowes, acting travel editor of the Guardian

Provence-Alpes-Cфte D"Azur

Provence and the Cфte d"Azur don"t take kindly to budgets, but experiencing the region on the cheap is possible. I"d head to Nоmes (just over the border in Languedoc-Roussillon), preferably between 8-13 June for the Fйria (viva-la-feria.com), and either buy a ticket for the bullfighting at the Roman arena of Les Arиnes (4 rue de la Violette, arenesdenimes.com) or settle for some gardiane, a bull casserole. I"d sleep at the excellent Nоmes youth hostel (€35 for a double, +33 4 6668 0320, hinimes.com).

On to Arles and the fascinating Van Gogh walking tour (+33 4 9018 4120, arlestourisme.com) then, bellyful of bull finally digested – it won"t go down without a fight – I"ll have pizza at Chez Nйnй et Bйbй (12 impasses du Forum, +33 4 9093 4949, tinyurl.com/5sg57fg).

I"d like to hit Avignon for its festival from 6-26 July (+33 4 9027 6650, festival- avignon.com) and to eat at Au Tout Petit (€25 for three courses, 4 rue d"Amphoux, +33 4 9082 3886, autoutpetit.fr), which serves good value, inventive dishes.

Last stop, Aix-en-Provence, and I"d stretch the budget to stay at Le Manoir (€67 for a double room, 8 rue d"Entrecasteaux, +33 4 4226 2720, hotelmanoir.com), set in an historic house with a beautiful courtyard and 14th-century cloister.

Neil McQuillian is a travel writer for Rough Guides

Languedoc-Roussillon

It is easy to find the Languedoc. Just follow the Rhфne river, and when you hit the southern French coast, instead of turning left to head to St Tropez or Provence, head right towards Spain. The region stretches over 16,000 square miles.

Your first major stop is Bйziers, a city that seems almost more Spanish than French. It was a Cathar stronghold in medieval times and the site of a horrendous massacre in 1209 when crusaders besieged the city. The worst bloodshed took place in the cathedral, which you should visit, if only for the views across the city and the Orb. Then you have two choices for lunch; either the best wine-bar in the region, Le Chameau Ivre (15 place Jean Jaurиs, +33 4 6780 2020, tinyurl.com/5s93d5t), or a charming restaurant called Le Petit Monmartre (+33 4 6728 5654, lepetitmontmartre.net) in the elegant Place de la Madeleine. Stay at the Hфtel des Poиtes, overlooking the park (80 allйes Paul Riquet, +33 4 67 76 38 66, hoteldespoetes.net).

Next stop is the Etang de Bages, just outside Narbonne. You can walk along the wooden walkways over the water, or simply along the coastal paths, admiring the nature and the pink flamingoes. If you"re hungry there is no nicer place to eat than the restaurant Le Portanel (pas de Portanel, +33 4 6842 8166, leportanel.fr).

From there it is a short drive to Spain, but please don"t miss Collioure (collioure.com), just before the border, a favourite haunt of the fauvist artists and famous for its anchovies.

Helena Frith Powell is the author of Love in a Warm Climate (Gibson Square, Ј8.99)